Spices that transform dishes
In the search for new mixes of flavours to amaze diners, modern cuisine is exploiting a fusion of exotic spices, because they transform dishes and instantly evoke distant lands.
"Haute cuisine has opened them up to the senses and proved they are a perfect condiment for fusing flavours from all over the world; immigrants have them as part of their culture, and they have also made them easier to buy: we’re talking about spices.
Ferran Adriá has been using sansho for some time as a special touch in certain dishes and it is even present in some of his recipes in his cookery DVDs. The great chef describes the flavour of this pepper as ""electric"". It combines with everything and has a hot, fresh and tickly touch. At the wedding of the Prince and Princess of Asturias in 2004, it accompanied a dish that consisted of strawberries with Campari, mandarin and basil.
Sansho is the Japanese version of the Chinese Sichuan pepper – which in fact is not a pepper but looks similar, and is easy to find in Asian supermarkets. Sichuan pepper is one of the ingredients of another amazing spice, five-spice powder, together with star anis, ginger, cassia and cloves.
Adriá and curry
Another well known and highly valued spice mix whose origins lie not far from China is curry. Adriá also uses it in many different recipes, due to its versatility. Curry leaf is better used fresh. It can be matched with coriander, ginger, tomato, yogurt... and it is used for Indian curry mixtures. It is hot and with a touch of citrus.
Also from Asia comes the sumac. This spice is used in the Middle East with fish, meat and salads. It has an acid flavour similar to lemon. It is a delight on glazed rice or skewered meat, as in Persian cuisine. And it is an essential component of another powder, zatar, combined with sesame seeds, salt and aromatic herbs, such as oregano or thyme, which can be used to taste, even with bread and olive oil to accompany certain dishes.
Completely different and far removed geographically is one of the species that may force its way into fusion cuisine. Merken is a powder prepared by the Mapuche Indians from Chile. It comes from the cacho de cabra –a hot dried pepper – mixed with coriander and salt. It tastes hot and smoky and is perfect for meat, fish and seafood.
Without leaving the continent, the pepper searcher will find another pepper that is not really a pepper: Jamaica pepper or allspice. It is the berry of a tropical tree and its flavour is a combination of nutmeg, cloves and cinnamon. It can be used both with sweet or savoury recipes. "
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Published in Wines, Gastronomy and Cigars by Antonio Alonso/Miguel Ángel García Vega on 19/04/2010
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